Part 2.

After our 14 hours in Denmark Kevin boarded an SAS flight Rome Bound. It was my second trip to Italy, and I am still on the fence with this culinary great. My first trip, to Florence a couple summers ago is marked with endelss cups of gelato and bowls of salad to battle the summer heat. I never had that life changing meal that so many speak of when they return from Italy. No eye closing, “mmmmmmm” inducing, swirling thoughts of pleasure. Instead I found Tuscan food heavy, bland, and for the love of god, please put some salt in your bread people! That whole Medici salt tax business ended eons ago!

This trip to the Almafi coast gave me hope for a better run with Italian food, after all we’d be heading to the home of pizza.

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View of the coast from our villa’s kitchen balcony

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in town

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restaurant sign

Almafi menu

cafe menu

almafi lemons

almafi lemons: the most wonderful lemons around. The size of an oblong grapefruit with the perfume of lemon so pure you’d swear it was artificial.

Almafi gardens

gardens in Revello

shopping for fish

me, fish shopping for Nate and Jen’s wedding meal

sweets italy

window shopping for sweets

almafi pizza

kevin and his pizza

gnocchi almafi

me and gnocci

The main purpose of the trip was to cook the reception meal for Kevin’s cousin’s wedding so we didn’t get too much sight seeing in. Food was on the brain for the duration of the trip, if it wasn’t what to cook for dinner it was navigating my way through a 4 course four hour Italian dinner. With an early departure time from Rome, kevin and I hightailed it outta Almafi and up to Rome for a day of eating before our flight home.

More food shops rome

Food shop in Rome where Kev and I indulged in oil cured tuna and caper stuffed sweet peppers.

Rome Night

the river at dusk

Ruggeri Rome

more food shops in Rome

pizza

pre-dinner snack. Thick bread pizza.

Big old forced meat

world’s biggest forcemeat?

Ethopian food

After a week of pasta and pizza Kevin and I were ready for something different and got it with Africa, what appears to be one of two ethnic restaurants in Rome (the other a Chinese restaurant near our hostel). The place was packed, the sidewalk outside was packed, and for good reason. Savory stews atop sour Ehtopian bread, injera, made from the grain tef.

Cafe at Termini

A last stop before our train to the airport

Espresse at termini

a perfect cappuccino

I’m sad to report that I never got the Italian meal of my dreams. Most everything tasted as I remembered, I did however pick up a few culinary treasures to schlepp back home (namely a lemon infused olive oil from Sorrento).

Perhaps those who report of culinary greatness are traveling with locals, out side of the city center, or college students on a break from fast food and dorm room ramen. I’ve often said that Asia is my Europe, referring to my attachment, awe and beguilement that varied continent bestows on me. It is possible that I will never fall in love with Italy the way I’ve fallen for Japan. Nonetheless, I’m sure the challenge will present itself again, at some point, me and Italy, for that perfect Italian meal.

A couple of posts ago I was on the Almafi coast for the wedding of Kevin’s cousin and his lovely bride. Our orbitz cheap ticket demanded a 14 hour layover in Copenhagen, and afforded Kevin and I a chance to shop and eat our way around the city’s Stroget area.

Plane food

Plane food: I can’t resist. We flew SAS and I have to say, not the most pleasent flying experience in terms of customer service.

Vending machiene coffee

After a 12 hour flight over the north pole what better to revive yourself than some vending machine coffee. Not quite as inexpensive and the kiosks in Seoul’s subways, but just as tasty.

Kevin and his gummies

Reason number one Kevin loves Copenhagen. Gummy candy. Though I love my husband dearly, he has an unhealthy relationship with gelatin based candies. He has found his people in Denmark. Gummy candy is everywear, in the subway, in the airport, in the hotel minibar. Dang ya’ll!

mini fridge copenhagen

Speaking of minibar, here’s ours. Another photo habit I can’t appear to break. The minibar photo.

Copenhagen hotel

Danish style or just kooky?

Copenhagen gates

Too adorable not to share

Shopping in Copenhagen

Shopping in Storget

almond roaster

Candied Almonds, 25Kroner or 5 bucks. Delish.

Roasted almonds

Kevin eventually let me have a few.

Hat shopping

Hats

Glugg

Glogg. Ordering this proved a bit of an Albott and Costello act.

Me: Gl-agg please
Waitress: Glu-gg?
Me: Uh, gl-agg?
Waitress: Ja, gl-ugg
Me: Um, the wine drink, hot
Waitress: ja, gl-ugg
Me: Gl-ugg?
Waitress: Ja, g-l-u-g-g
Me: Ah, glugg

Fried Dough

Traditional glogg accompaniments: Æbleskiver or Danish doughnuts. Served with powdered sugar and jam.

Organic restaurant Copenhagen

Copenhagen’s all organic restaurant

Deer meat

My deer meat carpaccio with berries, green onion, dill, parsley, and toasted walnuts frizzled with olive oil. AMAZING!

Langostiens

Kevin’s langoustines drenched in butter and garlic. Good, but mine was waaaaaaaay better.

Hotel Breakfast

Complimentary hotel buffet. Europeans know how to do it. What is with the American continental breakfasts? Who just wants a muffin and coffee. Not I. Meat, eggs, cheese, and cucumbers please!

Next post: Almafi

Ciao!

This week maryeats is kicking it on the Almfai coast at the wedding of my hubbys couisin.

 Already Kev and I have consumed food dreams are made of, pictures and stories to follow soon.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Mary

Earlier this week I got an email from NY Times writer Matt Gross asking for eating suggestions in Korea.

Hi Mary,

I’m a writer for the NY Times travel section who’s going to Seoul at the end of November, and I was hoping to get some advice from you, the expert. Basically, my story is simple—I’m supposed to eat my way through the city over the course of a week. I’ve consumed a lot of Korean food in the States, but am wondering what to expect—and what to track down—in Seoul. Are there dining trends to follow up on? New cuisines a-birthing? Local foodies I should invite out for dinner? (Ah, if only you weren’t in Seattle, I’d happily treat you!) And perhaps most important: If you wanted to do nothing but eat in Seoul, which neighborhood would you stay in?

Cheers,

I sent him a laundry list of suggestions, that you can find below, but what are yours? What would you tell Matt or anyone traveling to Seoul where and what to eat?

(more…)

Eat, Drink, and be Inspired

The slogan of Savor Seattle couldn’t be truer. When I first started this blog I was living in Korea and was intrigued by near everything involving food. As an outsider I was equally captivated in a package of dried ramyeon noodles as dinner at the elegant Season’s restaurant in the Hilton Seoul. Everyday, whether on my 10-minute break between classes or after or before work, my fingers flew over the keyboard, writing up restaurants or grocery store finds.

Berries at the Market

Moving home it has been hard to rekindle that wanderlust spark. Having been gone for 4 years, there is much to Seattle that has changed, a new restaurant scene, more highbrow grocery stores, and an emergence of ethnic grocery stores and food carts to reckon with. But having grown up here, it is hard to see past the nostalgia, and focus in on what is staring you in the face. My excuse for two months of absent blogging.

This week Erin (also a long time WA state-r though recently transplanted to the East Coast) and I signed up for the Savor Seattle’s food tour of the Pike’s Market. Hardly a sight new to either of us, I’ve been wandering the cobbled streets since I could remember. When I interned downtown, I ate in the market nearly every day, filling up on mini-doughnuts and potato and cheese piroshky. And I think the day Kevin knew I’d be his wife was the day I led him by the hand, first to the shy giant for some vanilla ice cream, then to Starbucks for a fresh shot of espresso, then to the sidewalk, where we sat, pouring our steaming shots over our vanilla ice cream, creating instant affogatoes.

As this year marks the Market’s 100th birthday, I realized that while I know the tastes of the market, I don’t know the stories, and there are literally stories behind near every piece of tile in the market. So, at 9:45 in the morning, Erin and I met Angela our tour guide, strapped on our earpieces, and feasted on words and tastes.

Crabs at the Market

During the two-hour tour, Angela fed us with market trivia, my favorite involving eggplants, and a tiled love letter (separately). Tour destinations included places I’d frequented many times before, but never got past the exchange of goods for cash. This time, however, we chatted with the fishmongers and were playfully harassed by a vegetable hawker. We ate, we drank, and somewhere, caught that illusive spark of inspiration. For Erin, it was stocking up on some serious Washington State products before heading back to NYC, for me that hunger to know and write about everything I was seeing and tasting.

When one of my chefs asked me to recommend some dishes at a local Korean restaurant I couldn’t have been more thrilled. Instantly I began rambling on and on over the virtues of dolsot bi bim bap and the sweet flavor of dwaeje galbi, putting on my best Seoul accent, stressing certain syllables, letting my tongue run over complicated vowel combinations only to find my five minute gastro-monologue interrupted. “I have no idea what you just said,” my audience of one blurted out. “You are going to have to write this down.”

Korea Menu 2
You’re lucky to find menues with both pictures and photoes, but often they look like the one below
Menu in Korean

Learning to eat Korean takes time, and I’m not even getting into table manners and customs. My first foray into the world of gochujang studded delights were the cheap diners, kimbap nara, kimbap chunguk, where back lit stylized photos of dishes strengthened my confidence. But when Kevin and I started hitting the gabli joints we suddenly had to read the menus, searching out familiar words. Would we be able to get mandu (dumplings?) “Do you think they have ddokboggie?” I’d ask hopefully. Eventually the vocabulary came, if I couldn’t properly translate the prefix, I could at least recognize the suffix, generally a cooking verb.

Learning these few cooking verbs and nouns can help whether you find yourself at a Korean restaurant in Bellevue or a Kimbap nara in Masan.

Kimbap
kimbap above and dolsotbap below are both examples of rice applications in Korean cuisine
Dolsotbap

Bap: Rice. Unlike Chinese restaurants, one does not order a side of rice. Rice does accompany dishes like Kimchi stew (jjigae) and is a base in dishes like Bibimbap- mixed rice, or kimbap- rice wrapped in seaweed (kim).

pig guts 2
stirfired pig’s intestines, found near Dongdaemun Market

Bokkum: Stir-fry. Here is an easy one: Bokkumbap. Fried rice. Or in early spring when it is baby octopus season in Korea, nakjibokkum.

Galbi
Tables like these clearly indicate that you are in a grilling restaurant

Gui (Goo-y): Broiled or Grilled foods. Korean cuisine is synonymous with grilled meats and seafood. Most are marinated though some, such as many of the fish dished are grilled with a simple dash of salt, through they won’t all include the suffix gui. The names of these dishes are based on the main ingredient: Galbi, grilled short ribs.

kong guksu
two examples of cold noodles, perfect for hoe summer days

Gooksu/kuksu, myeon: Noodles. But don’t get too excited. The word noodle is about as prevalent as the word pasta in the west. These are dozens of noodles and noodle dishes in Korea and not all of them include the identifying word. The most popular noodles in Korea are made from both buckwheat (like Japanese soba noodles) and regular wheat flour. There are thick hand cut noodles and thin white somen style noodles. The only noodles that are stir fired in Korea (to my knowledge) are ramyeon (ramen), udong (udon), and the transparent sweet potato starch noodles (dangmyeon) used in chap chae. Some delicious noodle dishes include Kal guksu- hand-cut noodle soup with various veggies and kimchi. My favorite continues to be mulnaemgmyeon- cold noodles in soup with brisket, sliced pear, and a hardboiled egg.

Samgyetang
The customary soup eaten on the hottest days of summer in Korea

Gook (Kuk), Tang: Soup. Soup accompanies most all meals in Korea, from humble seaweed soup to cures for hangovers that include fresh cow’s blood. What has to be the most popular soup is Samgyetang- a young chicken stuffed with rice, dates, and ginseng. What is the difference between gook and tang? The Korean Food Guide notes that the suffix tang refers to soups that have been simmered over low heat for a long time.

Korean Tuna Sashmi
Raw slices of tuna above, and diced raw tuna on a bed of crisp raw veggies, examples of hwae
Hwaedopbap

Hwae/hoe: Raw. Hwae generally refers to raw fish, cut like sashimi, and sans the rice, but yukhwae is a raw beef dish, similar to steak tartar. One of my favorite summer dishes Hwaedapbap is chopped raw fish atop sliced veggies on rice with a spicy chili sauce. Hwae-raw fish bap-rice. Starting to get it?

gochujang
The godfather of Korean sauces

Jang: Jang translates into sauce. Korea’s infamous fiery chile paste so dear to my heart is gochujang, and then there is the mandu dipping kangjang, or soy sauce.

haemulcheongul
Haemulchongul, or seafood hotpot

Jeonkol/Chongol: Hot Pot. Darn near all the North Asian countries have some sort of one pot hot pot dish. In Japan it’s oden. One type found in Korea is dubujeonkol, or tofu hotpot, a collision of sliced tofu, ground beef, bamboo shoots, green onions and more.

kimchi jjigae
Kimchi jjigae

Jjigae: Stew: Kimchijjigae, or kimchi stew, is a bubbling cauldron of tantalizing spiced (ok, usually just chili), chock full of its star ingredient. Served rice they usually accompany larger dishes like bulbogi or galbi, but are often eaten on their own.

jangjorim 5
Jjim, jolim: Casserole, steamed or braised dishes. Kablijiim, casserole of short ribs, dates, mushrooms, carrots, and gingko nuts, is one of the top 10 must eat Korean foods.

Tuna Spread Juk
rice porriage with chinks of tuna, chamchejuk

Jook: The literal translation of this word is gruel but don’t let that put you off. Think instead of a thick porridge, made from grains steamed over low heat, peppered with everything from minced abalone to pine nuts and dates.

pan fry
Panfried vegetables above and pan fried vegetable cakes below, examples of jeon.
Jeon

Jeon/Chon: Pan fried, mostly referring to cakes, and vegetables that have been dipped in flour then coated with egg. One of the more recognizable jeons is pajeon, a green onion pancake that accompanies some meals as bancheon. During the plentiful squash season, it is common to find hobakjeon, sliced zucchini battered in egg and pan fried, on the dinner table.

mul mandu
mul, or water, mandu make for a quick lunch fix

Mandu: dumplings. Korea’s answer to pot stickers and gyoza. I’m a diehard fan of the kimchi variety. Another favorite manduguk- dumpling soup.

Namul
Namul, arranged elegantly on a serving dish. The orginal Korean hippie food?

Namool: Weeds. Ok, before you start thinking, weeds? Who eats weeds? I think of namool as herb like vegetables, smaller greens and sprouts, gently sautéed with the sometimes addition of sesame oil or soy sauce. Generally served as a side dish, some vegetarian and health conscious restaurants in Korea turn a sampler plate of rare foraged treats into a main dish.

Fried peppers
batter and deep fried stuffed peppers

Twigim: Deep Fried. For purposes of familiarity, twigam can be compared to the Japanese tempura, but the main difference is that twigam is a heavier, heartier batter than its neighbor across the sea. At any one of Korea’s ubiquitous pojangmacha, street vendors, you’ll find plates of mandutwigam (fried dumplings), or yachetwigam (deep fried vegetables) piled high ready for wandering snackers. Twigam is rarely served in restaurants in Korea with the exception of the occasional side dish, bancheon, but is finding its way on to North American Korean menus thanks to our affinity for all that is crispy.

This is just an introduction into Korean cuisine, please feel free to give your 2 cents.

I have gotten a slew of emails lately and while I’ve done my best to answer them, please add your 2 cents.

Anytime mints are a curious candy, once you have a taste for the vanilla mint, no other will ever do. Sadly I could not find an online source for Anytime mints. I did, however, find them at my local Korean Grocery Chain Pal-Do World. If you have a hankering for these I suggest contacting your local Korean grocery and begging, or try calling Pal-do and ask to special order a case. Those of you reading in Korea could stand to make a mint here. Ba-dam ba! I really didn’t intend for that pun, but seriously, you could start an export business out of your apartment.

Calories in Ddok. One of my favorite friends back in Seoul recently emailed me asking, no doubt dreading the answer, if there were a ton of calories in ddok. The sad answer? YES. Though I love ddokboggie and ddokgochi, and ddok guk, the long slender fingers of processed rice cakes are just about as bad for you as a bag of chips. Of course I have no hard-core evidence to back this up, but I vaguely remember reading a JoongAng Daily article about unhealthy snacks and sitting pretty next to a big mac was a bowl of ddokboggie.

Street Food in Seoul.
Recently I got an email from a reader about to visit the land of the morning calm on a stop over asking for suggestions on where to eat Street Food. You can’t throw a rock without hitting a pojangmacha, but some high concentrated areas for grazing include Dongdaemoon market, Myeongdong shopping area, and around Yongsan Station.

Korean Style Fried Chicken in Seattle
The NY Times article, featuring fantastic Korean foodie Zen Kimchi, has sparked interested in Korean Fried Chicken. Recently I was asked where to find this in Seattle, and here is what I could find. Imo’s in Pioneer Square does a Cornish game hen treated to a Korean style fry, and, according to ChowHound.com, a little place in Federal Way, past Federal Way Discount Guns. If you know of a place anywhere in the I-5 Corridor, let me know.

Finally beloved, who muses at belovedbabbling, is asking for Korean restaurants in the Downtown Seattle vicinity. Sadly, I am not an expert here. I know of The Shilla, possible one of Seattle’s oldest Korean restaurants, however I cannot attest to the quality of the food. Then there is Shilla Korean BBQ, a small Kimbap Nara-ish joint in the Uwajimaya food court. Any Suggestions?

“Is this your first time in Cabo?” The lady in the seat next to me asked.
“Yes.” I replied in a tone that neither expressed excitement nor intrest.
“Oh,” she said, her eyebrows raised in excitement. “You’re going to just love it.”

Mexico and I have never been friends.

Though thousands of Americans are drawn to beaches and underage drinking, and thousands of Mexicans are drawn to higher wages, Mexico and I are like oil and vinegar (me being extra virgin olive oil imported from Tuscany and Mexico being two bit hintz white vinegar). That is until my mother-in-law flew me down to join her and Kevin for a week in Cabo (something she is no doubt regretting as she has twice desperately lost to me at scrabble).

After nine weeks of cramming the most arcane of culinary information into that little 12% of my brain that actually gets used, I have hit the wall (didn’t take long, did it?). I don’t know what is going on, really, I never got good grades before (but let me tell you I, though lucky to be harboring somewhere around a 3.0, considered myself right along up there with my friends who got accepted to ivy league schools and scored 1400 on their SATs. It isn’t that I didn’t get accepted to Stanford, I just didn’t want to go there). My misunderstood genius was redirected into making out with my boyfriend or memorizing lines from Samuel Becket plays for upcoming debate tournaments).

I can understand that it is confusing for my family and friends to see me so determined, so intent on a 4.0, so focused on my studies. One friend, in particular, I won’t name names, but we’ll see if she even recognizes I’m talking about her, reminds me, on an almost daily basis that I never used to be like this. “Mary? What happened? You were never like this in high school, organized, and all doing your homework.” But I’ll wear her compliment, “you’re the cutest perfectionist I know,” with pride. The point is this. I want to enjoy my good grades, my success in class, not be made to feel embarrassed for it. And then there is the counter point. Maybe I’m taking this all to seriously. This is school afterall, and not, as my chef reminded me after confessing my bleeding heat, “the CIA.”

I don’t claim to be Jerri Blank, but I am confident that my resolute sense of responsibility stems from hitting the glass ceiling in the world of coffee, glass bottom of the coffee cup so to speak? I have been 23, thinking I was the cat’s meow, but only making 7.25 an hour. Not exactly the place I imagined my BA in the Arts would find me. I guess that is why my classmates like to poke fun and snicker when I get frustrated at their complete lack of responsibility, or try to contest a missed question on a midterm.

Finally getting in a verbal spat with one after one too many of his “I’m just teasing,” got me on the first day of my period. I really hate that our menstrual cycle so often takes the blame, or truly is the cause, of outbursts, emotions, or rage induced flurries. But sometimes it can’t be helped, ( I have a 28 day long fuse) and last Tuesday was one of those days (I’m blaming my 93 on the quiz on it).

So here I am in Mexico, sipping on margaritas Kevin has spent the week perfecting, trying to “do nothing,” to relax. Cabo is a funny place. Too many American tourists, clad in novelty t-shirts, baseball caps, and sport sandals to allow me my usual combing of alleyways and markets (haven’t found a market yet, come to think of it), so I’ve sequestered myself to our junior suite kitchen, fixing up tortilla soup, chicken and greens in tomitallo salsa, and grilled tiger shrimp. Sometimes cooking is stressful to the point of wanting to flip the sauté pan across the room while yelling obcenities then pull out a package of frozen kimchi mondu in defeat, but other times like this week, cooking quietly puts things back in order, allowing one little successes, a round of compliments from snackers, slowly rebuilding what before came crashing down.


Kev demonstrates how to infuse lime into a beer cabo style.

Does this mean I will return to class fresh faced passing out smiles to those that perturb me beyond belief? No. But at least sinister thoughts of how I can sabotage their Chef Of The Day final will have subsided.

Because I can’t resist the comic posts, I give you this

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At the moment I’m coming to you from a two story, brick laden bagel cafe in the sunny, and windy city of Cape Town, South Africa.

Kevin and I are escaping the bone chilling Korean winter, all 6 months of it, to summery South Africa to soak up rays and sink our teeth into a whole new cuisine.

Our tickets were quite cheap, and if you also buy cheap tickets, you know this can mean 12-20 hour layovers in airports. Thankfully, instead of being cooped up in a drab airport terminal sucking in stale air and trying unsuccessfully to sleep under the glare of fluorescent lights, Singapore wants you to get out there and spend some cash! You can opt for a guided tour provided by Singapore Airlines, or go it alone. We had a nicely timed 12 hours to eat and shop. And eat and shop we did! If you live in North Asia, Singapore is about a 5 hour flight from Seoul and a great city in which to rejuvenate stagnant gray senses. The weather is usually muggy and cloudy, but the food dazzles kimchi laden taste buds, and shops like Zara and Top Shop cater to those of us who are large-ee.

I present to you maryeats, a peek at hawker stands.

If you are interested in Singapore cuisine there are a host of Singaporean food bloggers out there. Check out chubby hubby, kuidaore, and Kitchen crazy daffy.

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