mary eats

Two delicious articles close to my heart appear today in the San Francisco Chronicle, Cold Noodles and Pickles- complete with recipes (naeng myun and oisobagi kimchi).

Read, cook, eat, discuss.

Northwest Palate Magazine is reporting this month the Food and Wine Magazine 2008 Best New Chef Ethan Stowell of Union, Tavolata, and How to Cook a Wolf owns and has read over 1,200 cookbooks.

Dang.

Kevin would kill me. But a new goal nonetheless

The 2008 James Beard Award Nominees are out and listed here. A Northwest shout out goes to Portland chef, Gabriel Rucker of Le Pigeon nominated in the catagory of Rising Star Chef.

In the catagory of Outstanding Restaurateur Awaward, Tom Douglas makes an appearence

Canlis shows up as a nominee in the catagory of Outstanding Service

And in the BEST CHEF NW catagory, Washington blows out the compition outta the water with heavyweights Maria Hiens of Tilth, Holly Smith of Cafe Juanita, Ethan Stowell of Union, and Jason Wilson of Crush.

Best of luck to all these northwest tastemakers!

While studying tonight for my midterm, I was listening to The Splendid Table when Lynn brought up a subject very close to my heart: The cookbook library. Having just moved from a house with large built in bookshelves to a one hundred year old apartment with uneven floors and thick molding that proves impossible for standalone bookshelves, suddenly, my enormous cookbook and culinary reference library became more of a hassle than an asset.

One wee section of my collection

Lynn’s guest, Francine Maroukian, columnist for Esquire magazine and author, talks about paring down her culinary library and rebuilding her library around a new program.

First she starts with the heartbeat. For her it’s Julia. And though she admits not cooking from Mastering the Art one or two, it is her go to resource for everything. On either side of Julia she added other books that were at the heart of her culinary repertoire.

My Kitchen heartbeat includes Madhur Jaffrey’s World Vegetarian, Didi Emmon’s Vegetarian Planet, Eating Korean, and Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. Now that I have moved into the meat-eating world I’m assuming that a few animal protein based cookbooks will work their way into my heart.

Next Francine suggests defining your interest. For her, a former caterer, it’s entertaining. For me its Asian and world cooking. In addition to every lonely planet world food series book, I’ve also started collecting Time Life Flavors of the World Series. I love this snap shot of life in the later 60’s, and anthropological approach to cuisines around the globe. I also try to pick up a cookbook while on holiday. I wasn’t able to find any in Cambodia, but I’ve returned from my travels with a Thai cookbook, a Goan cookbook, Singaporean, South African, Hong Kong; now that I think of it I didn’t get one in Italy. Though I most likely won’t cook out of them, they beat out a snow globe for nostalgia.

Step three, Francine bulks up on references books she says “from experts that are made up of more than just resources. People in the field.” Specifically she is speaking of the Stalwart, the cheese Primer author Steve Jenkins. My reference collection is built around the Oxford Companion to Food and Wine, The Professional Chef CIA, Schott’s Food and Drink Miscellany, A Dictionary of Japanese Food, Lets Eat Korean Food, Korean Food Guide, and French Cheeses. I also consider the Lonely Planet food books and Time Life series reference.

Finally, step 4, Inspiration/Aspiration. Here Francine touts books that inspire her or she knows she’ll be a better person for cooking from them. For her, it’s Jamie Oliver, because his personality is so clearly stated in his books, or The Balthazar cookbook from the New York restaurant of the same name (a book I am currently working out of in class and can attest to its inspirational quality)

My inspiration comes from both the old and the new (another piece of advice from Francine is to consider older cookbooks that have stood the test of time). The new Morimoto and the Aquavit cookbooks are so beautiful to peruse they immediately make me want to recreate their dishes. More inspriation; The New American Chef, The Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook, The Lee Brother’s Southern Cookbook, Laurel’s Kitchen, River Road Recipes (from the Junior League of Baton Rouge) and A Cooks Tour of Shreveport.

To see more books I’m considering adding to my library (space and Kevin permitting) have a peek at my wish list.
And you?

Frank Bruni did it, Jonathan Kauffman did it, now, it’s my turn. A countdown of the culinary kind, a remembrance of meals past. Most of what shows up on my list are firsts for me. Rillettes, caviar, hamachi; culinary treats I’d never tried before, and oddly, pork.
My top meals/plates of 2007.

1. Momofuku Noodle Bar, New York

On a quick trip to New York last month for my dearest and oldest friend’s 30th birthday Momofuku was the prime focus. For her birthday dinner we, and a couple other friends dined at Momofuku saam and it was amazing, but my favorite of the two is the noodle bar, where Erin and I fed our souls on a cold cold New York day. The rich pork-y broth was chock full of shredded pork, kimchi, and sliced ddok. Fine carrot strings nested upon the top gave the dish a classy presentation, but once pushed into the soup it tasted everything jjigae should but more refined. Just writing about it leaves my stomach and taste buds searching for a cheap NYC ticket on Orbitz.

2. Christmas Eve set menu at Tilth, Seattle

Christmas Eve dinners of my past were always a grand affair. Mother would let Jamie and I choose the menu (usually stuffed shells and King Crab Legs), we would get dressed up, and drink sparkling apple cider out of champagne flutes. Kevin also had a strong Christmas eve tradition with his family of a stone soup, if you will. This year we went out on a limb and celebrated out. Kevin made the reservations, a set menu at Tilth, celebrating the Spot Prawn. The procession, Spot Prawn Bisque with fennel, shallot, fines herbs, and spot prawn row was served table side and a contender for favorite course, Arugula Salad with truffle vinaigrette, toasted hazelnuts and Parmesan shavings, Duck Leg Confit with spot prawn salpicon, napa cabbage charcuit and potato puree, and finally Theo’s Chocolate Pot de Creme with cardamom chantilly and smoked fleur de sel

3. Columbia Wine Makers Dinner, Meritage, Redmond

My parents helped Kevin and I celebrate our anniversary early with a wine maker’s dinner at Meritage in the Redmond Marriot. The meal was fantastic and you can read the whole description here, but my favorite was the first course, a piece of Hamachi sashimi, in a vanilla butter with micro greens and osetra caviar. It was my first time tasting many components of the dish, the micro greens, the hamachi (which has the texture of butter) and the osetra.

4. Korea meets France, my first meal at Coupage, Seattle

When I read both reviews of Coupage in the Times and PI, I knew I had to go, Korean food with a French twist. With all the fancy pants food I ate in Korea never once did I see an upscale western twist on Korean food. My main course, short ribs were succulent and fork tender the star of the show was a wild mushroom bibimbap. Flash sauteed shiitakes, oyster and cremini mushrooms rested atop shredded napa cabbage tossed in a truffle vinaigrette finally seated on a bed of perfectly cooked short grain rice. A shot of spicy chili paste raced out from the side, while half Quail’s eggs crowned the plate off. It was dramatic and tasty, and most importantly gave me direction in my own style of cooking. For months after arriving back in the states I knew I wanted to recreate Korean meals at home but in a more visually appealing and refined way. Thanks Coupage.

5. Anniversary dinner at Crush, Seattle

Though Kevin and I celebrated our five years of marital bliss in Walla Walla, Kevin’s dad, mom, and grandmother helped us celebrate at Crush a couple of weeks later. I remember deciding it would be a good idea to order a couple of small plates, goat cheese hazelnut tart topped with arugula tossed in a truffle vinaigrette and squash ravioli, but hands down Kevin’s dish was the winner. A trio of pork, and a hallmark of the Crush menu, The Three Little Pigs with Baby Beans & Cider Sauce Tenderloin, Crepinette of Shank, Laquered Belly. Pork Belly. Is there anything better?

But the piece de resistance was the after dinner chocolates, with a special message for Kev and me. Can I get a “Awwwwwwwww.”?

6. Carnitas at a taco stand in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

After a week of overpriced and oversized tourist food at Cabo stallwarts such as Edith’s and Mi Casa, Kevin finally took me to a little taco stand where we feasted on carnitas until our bellies were swollen and lips stained red from the picante sauce. They were my first and I will never forget them.

7. Deer meat carpaccio at Peder Oxe in Copenhagen, Denmark

When you only have 14 hours in which to explore a city (and 10 of those being the hours in which most things are closed) you can’t be too choosy about where to go and what to see. Best to chose one area and hit the ground running. Thus was our experience in Copenhagen which landed us at the doorstep of Peder Oxe, a Danish/Global/Organic restaurant. Normally I wouldn’t order a plate of raw meat for dinner, blame it on the jet lag or that I had never tried deer meat before, but I went for it and was pleasantly surprised to find a loin of dear meet cooked medium rare and sliced into 1/2 inch rounds topped with juicy cow berries, dill, parsley, toasted walnuts and olive oil. Hurray for deer.
8. Dinner at Saffron, Walla Walla

Kevin and I marked our Anniversary (are you sensing a theme here?) with a weekend in Walla Walla which I have not posted about yet (saving it for a slow February I guess). Walla Walla is Washington’s darling of wine regions and is home of the state’s best, Cayuese, Leonitti, Buty, a’Maurice, just to name a few coming outta of here. For the longest time, 26Brix was the head honcho, but newcomer Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen has stolen the show. We chose a shower of small dishes, but by far my favorite was the beef cheeks, deliciously fork tender meat, similar to short ribs. In this picture you’ll see Kevin’s favorite, the calamari.

9. Pork Rillettes, Lark, Seattle

I had big hopes for my dinner at Lark, but was disappointed to say that it didn’t live up to my expectations. Our dinner was good and nice, but nothing left me raving or craving to go back, with the exceptions of the pork rilletes. Plain, honest, and reaping with pork flavor they were creamy smooth and best eaten on their own, sans bread or cracker.

10. My After Christmas Dinner on December 27, Bellevue
Because the grandiose Christmas and Christmas Eve dinners of my past I dearly loved are now gone I decided to have my own fancy pants dinner in the style of my mother. Through she made us clean the house top to bottom along with her and my father, wash our hands and change our clothes (no jeans and tshirts), I loved the luxurious feel of the tablescape, dining wear and my absolute favorites the crackers.

I set the table for six the night before, decorating with cedar and holly branches. My plates were from last year’s Tord for Target collection. The menu: Shaved fennel, blood orange, and pomegranate salad with butter leaf lettuce and peccorino in a meyer lemon dressing. Homemade crab tortellini with a scallion poppy seed butter. Roasted pork loin with apples, caramelized onion and rosemary sauce. And finally homemade dense gingerbread cake with eggnog creme anglise and candied cranberries. For all the money and time spent on the meal it was worth it all. Entertaining for friends in the style of my family was both a gift to myself and others.

Top Dinks 2007

1. Cayuse, Vigonier

Drank at Lark with our so so dinner. Our waitress was tres impressed with our B.Y.O.W. as were we (thanks mom and dad-PS Lark has a very low corkage fee!)
2. White Port and Tonic

A drink we had at the Bellevue Whole Foods Spanish wine tasting. Very refreshing and not too expensive. White port runs about 12-14 bucks a bottle.

3. Barrel tastings at Beaux Feilds, Willamette Valley Oregon

This was the first barrel tasting I had ever participated in and what a difference a few years in oak make. My first couple glasses were terrible, highly tannic and acidic, I nearly spat them out at the server rather than in the spitton. Finally I asked someone what I should be looking for in these young wines. Balance.

4. a’Maurice Voigoier,

Drank with our meal at Saffron, it was citrus-y with tropical hints of papaya and pineapple. Amazing.

5. Yellow Hawk, Sangiovese

On our first night in Walla Walla we hit up the bar at 26Brix, I had a cocktail (a very faux pas thing to do according to the guy next to me) but Kevin had a glass of what has become our favorite everyday drinker (not that we can really afford that). Smooth and balanced it goes with near everything from a large Pagliacci Brooklyn pizza to herb roasted chicken.

6. Tamarak Cellers

Out at the wine makers ghetto in Walla Walla (the old militaty airport compound converted into wine maker studios) we first tried these pack a punch wines. Plus I got to pretend to crush crapes ala Lucy and Ethel.

7. Japanese Plum Wine and Soda with a twist of lime

Kevin’s work mate Carolyn introduced us to this easy summer cocktail. Mix one part Japanese plum wine and one part soda water. A new twist on the summer sundowner.

8. Port, Wineglass Wineries, Yakima Valley

The Tasting Room at Pike’s market is where Kevin and I first tried this port. Usually we both find port cloying and too sweet, but this wine, rich with bing cherry and chocolate is how to settle down with a wet Washington winter.

9. Taru Sake

Kevin and I love Umi Sake House down in Belltown. Sake novices, the waitress pointed us toward this medium body hibuscus perfumed sake (available at Uwajimaya for about 14 bucks).

10. Columbia 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley

Saving the best for last, my parents unearthed two bottles of this 15 year old wine from the garage earlier this year and gave one bottle to Kevin and I. I have never aged wine, in fact it, wasn’t until this year that I even bought bottles that could be aged. Most of what we drink is ready now, but this Cabernet Sauvignon was awe inspiring, the way the wine transcended stages from sweet to a savory mineral finish. It gave us both hope and inspiration for laying down a couple bottles, one, a Leonetti merlot and the other, a Beaux Frers Pinot Noir.

What are your tops for the year?

Happy New Year!

Right before leaving for our couisin’s wedding in Italy (seriously like 3 hours before) I was notified by a crisp white 8×11 piece of paper that I had won our school’s food writing scholarship.

I applied for this scholarship last year, and thought I had it in the bag. Um hello! Blogger (with a spelling problem), paid restaurant critic, book contributer. And as you can guess I did not win. This year I dug a little deeper, pulled out the “hearts and flowers” (not the way I like to write), and as I turned my essay in I said, “If I do not win, please gently pull me aside and let me know that food writing is not in my future.”

Culinary and Writing are both ego fueled careers, and while I find pleasure in both, I’s be lying if I didn’t admit to also finding pleasure in the ego stroking. It feels good to have people recognize the work you’ve done, and the chorus of “ohhhhhs,” and “ahhhhhhhs,”  is better than a paycheck. (Ok, not really, the pay check is important too.)
Thanks to Erin, Lily, Carolyn and Shannon for reading through and editing.

Red Velvet

My father isn’t a hard man to please. A southern born military school graduate, he likes things done right, the first time. Simple pleasures such as sipping a cold can of Coca Cola after mowing the lawn on a hot summer afternoon, or a few autumn puffs on his pipe deeply satisfy him. In contrast to the ever-changing demands for sweets and entertainment, and full attention we placed on our mother, my father’s few and far between requests carried more weight. A man who valued quality over quantity and an evolving gastronome, his traditional but impeccable taste in food has proved to be a bedrock in my culinary journey.

Such was the case for his birthday cake. No ordinary cake would do. Sub-par sponge blanketed with garish pink buttercream roses plagued our local grocery store bakeries. My mother, partaking in a cherished family tradition from my father’s childhood would present to him a fully homemade red velvet cake.

Every January 31st following the long holiday baking season of pies, Christmas cookies, and fruitcake my mother would lug out her white Kitchen Aid standing mixer. And from her worn tin recipe box, she would pull a faded 3×5 card for red velvet cake penned in Grandmother Williams elegant, but illegible cursive.
Pulling a chair over from the kitchen table I would peer over the mixer, watching in silent awe. Crack! The eggs slid into the bowl. Ploom! A puff of flour escaping into the air. “This is daddy’s cake,” my mother would say to my sister Jamie and me as we waited patiently to lick the paddle attachment clean of its pink batter. “And when he was a boy, his mother would make it for him on his birthday.”
After dinner, it would appear. A cake dreams are made of, three tiers of sanguine sponge, swirls of frosting suggesting cascading silk theater curtains the color of fresh cold snow. With a long slicer she would slowly saw into the cake, removing a wedge to reveal a shade of dangerously exciting red. The dense, but moist cake tasted of pure milk chocolate, and the smooth, luxuriously rich cream cheese frosting sent me whirling into a pleasure coma, eyelids half-mast, a satisfied grin plastered across my young face. Had I known about the birds and the bees then, I surely would have sworn them off for a lifetime supply of red velvet cake.
After dinner the Kitchen Aid mixer would go back in the cabinet; the recipe card, further sepia-toned with a splash of vanilla, back into the tin recipe box. Like her fruitcake or chocolate dipped pretzels, I naively expected my father’s cake every year, but as our family schedule became more harried, tradition fell by the wayside. Leaving the dirty work to restaurants, my father’s birthday was celebrated with a meal out through high school and college.

Several years have past since my mother has made my father’s favorite cake, but there isn’t a January that goes by where my father and I don’t make a deal with God for just one more slice of red velvet.

Well, not really, but a couple weekends ago I volunteered at the Crave 07 show with the folks at Kathy Casey Food Studios. Locals know Kathy as a spunky chef who appears on channel 9, writes for the paper, wrote a James Beard Nominated cookbook this year; Seattle’s own First Lady of Food. Her food studios in Ballard is a mecca for foodies, with private dining rooms, an elegant bar, and my favorite, a walk in closet library with shelves stretching 10 feet above my head. Your can get a taste of Kathy’s cooking at SEA-TAC’s Dish D’lish, or from the dozens of companies she consults for.

As she did at the Northwest Women’s Show earlier this year, Kathy hosted a stage with a rotating list of Seattle’s favorite chefs demoing some of their favorite dishes.

Here Kevin Davis of Steelhead diner prepares his famous Angry Crab, a spicy saute of King Crab Legs thick as my wrists.

Next, Chef in the Hat, Thierry Rautureau, put on the charm as he demonstrated Scrambled Eggs with Lime Creme Fraiche and White Sturgeon Caviar in Egg Shells. The combination of Rautureau’s charm and accent, he had all the ladies in the audience giggling like 4th graders.

Finally, I assisted Cathy and her sous Chef Matthew with an appetizer of corn cakes, and sesame roasted shrimp. After a few minutes of standing stage left, rushing off dirty dishes or retrieving dish towels, Cathy asked little ole me to come up on stage and skewer the shrimp. So exciting! Hello!

I also got to demonstrate a chef’s favorite technique. Sprinkling. Let’s be honest. When you watch the food network and you watch Giada reach into her pot of sea salt, grab a pinch, then position her hand about 18 inches above her dish and rub her fingers back and forth, the frame of salt falling down in an elegant whirl is soothing and a touch impressive. Done right is is breathtaking.

With a bowl of black and white sesame seeds set before me, I too, attempted to woo the audience with my sprinkling skills. “Don’t look at Kathy,” I said with my wave of seeds falling on the shrimp. “Look at me! Isn’t this beautiful, aren’t you so impressed? Don’t you want to hire me Kathy Casey, because I sprinkle sesame seeds like no other?”

You, might think I am joking. But no. It is the same possessed state that would overshadow my childhood dance recitals. Outfitted in black spandex shorts and tank, embellished with blue and pink sequins, I awaited my destiny. Though I lived in a suburb of Seattle, far from LA, I was sure that a casting agent from the TV show In Living Color was in the audience and was going to ask me to become a fly girl. Needless to say, it never happened, and I ended up abandoning my dance career for a life in the kitchen.
Crave 07, did I mention that Theo chocolates had a booth next to us with cascading mountains of chocolate samples? Looking forward to next year.

Earlier this week I got an email from NY Times writer Matt Gross asking for eating suggestions in Korea.

Hi Mary,

I’m a writer for the NY Times travel section who’s going to Seoul at the end of November, and I was hoping to get some advice from you, the expert. Basically, my story is simple—I’m supposed to eat my way through the city over the course of a week. I’ve consumed a lot of Korean food in the States, but am wondering what to expect—and what to track down—in Seoul. Are there dining trends to follow up on? New cuisines a-birthing? Local foodies I should invite out for dinner? (Ah, if only you weren’t in Seattle, I’d happily treat you!) And perhaps most important: If you wanted to do nothing but eat in Seoul, which neighborhood would you stay in?

Cheers,

I sent him a laundry list of suggestions, that you can find below, but what are yours? What would you tell Matt or anyone traveling to Seoul where and what to eat?

(more…)

Armindino Batali had two shopping tips for Kevin and I on our upcoming trip to Naples. He instructed Kevin to buy some traditional Almafian Jewelry for me, and for us to bring back 100 water buffalo so that we could get ourselves a plot on Vashon Island and, “make what the US is missing”, buffalo mozzarella.

My guess is that we will take him up on tip number one.

Earlier this evening, Kevin, myself and a handful of AIWF members participated in a tasting of Batali’s salumi and WA wines.

I had thought it would be a salumi class or lecture, but really it was an opportunity to hear some of Armindino’s stories of Dario the famous Tuscan butcher, and other antidotes from his tours of Italian farms as well as chat him up about where his meat comes from and just how he enjoyed Anthony Bourdain’s, and the travel channel’s visit to Salumi. As if that line isn’t already long enough.

My wee summer vacation slipped through my fingers quickly, and paired with a less than sunny Seattle summer weather, I found myself often in the Public library pouring over cookbooks. For the first time ever, it was the intros I was after rather than the recipes.  Filled with tips, inspirations, and general cooking know how, these precious few pages before the omnibus of recipes begin are like private lessons from the world’s best chefs. To keep myself motivated as I approach my third decade, I’ve started scribbling (ok, typing really) down those that strike a deep chord.

Alice Waters: Chez Panisse Vegetables
“Exact quantities should never matter as much to a good cook or vegetables (or of anything else) as her confidence in her own senses.”

Connie Trang: Essentials of Asian Cuisine
“The most important lesson I took from French cuisine was its notion of structure in cooking. When one learns the “architecture” of a cuisine, the rest will follow.”

Rick Bayles: Mexican Everyday
“Essential Learning #5 The world’s most time-honored cuisines illustrate that; 1, everyday eating is best kept to deliciously seasoned simple preparations of natural ingredients (mostly unrefined and balanced among a variety of fruits, vegetables, grains, legumes, and meat) Served in moderate portions and 2, fabulous feasts, once a week, or for special occasions are an essential part of our healthy nourishment.”

Daniel Boulud: Letters to a Young Chef
“Never worry that someone will come along who is as good as you are. Two cooks- working as a team are much more valuable than one good cook. In cooking as in music, harmony is greater than the sum of its parts.”

It is however, these opening lines from the 1966 publication of Julia Child’s groundbreaking The Art of French Cooking, that makes me appreciate and envy the generations before me, who grew up with this culinary icon, as apposed to my generations’ TV cooks, RR and Sandra Lee

“This is a book for the servantless American cook who can be unconcerned on occasion with budgets, waistlines, time schedules, children’s meals, the parent-chauffeur-den-mother syndrome, or anything else which might interfere with the enjoyment of producing something wonderful to eat.”