mary eats

My review of Pho Saigon, a Pho restaurant in Itaewon runs today in the Korea Times. You can read it here.

Pho restaurants are a big dining trend in Seoul. Koreans are noodle fans, however authenticity isn’t necessarily observed.

What the pho?

To start, lemons replace limes; integral fragrant herbs like that basil and cilantro are missing. I am willing to bet that the broth is not made from scratch with star anise and other spices. C’est la vie. It is still good, just don’t come with fond memories of your backpacker’s holiday in Viet Nam where all you did was slurp noodles by the roadside.

Another Korean twist is the addition of the pickled radish damuji in the fresh spring rolls, a surprise that did not delight. Other fusion ingredients would include imitation crab and pineapple. eh.

Happily the Vietnamese Coffee remains as rich and syrupy as a melted coffee ice-pop (candy, icicle).

Vegetarians, you can do ok here. The soup is off, but in its place take in the Mixed rice noodles (bibim noodles). A preasent mix of freshly cut veggies and noodles lighlty dressed with sesame oil. Spicy red sauce arrives on the side.

So when all these problems plague every pho restaurant in town how do you pick? The two major chains, Pho Bay and Pho Bao are fine, a touch sterile, paper place mats, servers running about the restaurant. Pho Saigon is within walking distance from my house, and is run by a lovely couple. I’m thinking of imparting some guerilla consulting next time I dine. I will simple leave, in my place, a bag of limes and cilantro and a note saying, “try this please”.

Pho Saigon
Opposite the Capital Hotel
Open Mon-Sat 11:30-10:00pm

My review of the Japanese Izakaya, Shoubu runs in the Times today. You can read it here.

This Japanese drinking den takes a décor clue from TGIFridays. Edo era posters, vintage sake ads, and the luck cat, clutter the restaurant with their kitschy charm. The iconic red lanterns hang about the restaurant casting an underworld glow. A mod deal wouldn’t be out of place, nor is group of drunk college girls gossiping away in the corner. The idea here is to stop in for a bite and a pint before heading home, attempting to compost a meal from the menu’s myriad of appetizers will prove tiresome, on your palate and wallet. Instead opt for the okonomiyaki, a fluffy seafood and cabbage pancake, or the Vietnamese salad rolls. Sake is available, starting at 9,000won, budget conscious will do fine with the Korean Chunghwa 3,000won.

Today my review of El Plato, a tapas and paella restaurant in Hongdae, ran in the Korea Times. You can read it here.

I give el Plato high praise for bringing something new to the Korean dining scene. Tapas, an international dining craze has been slow to make its way across the Yellow Sea.

The young owner, Jefe Kim, has done his research. Dotting the restaurant are photos of his trip to Spain where both he and his chefs learned the art of paella. Unfortunately, what plagues his restaurant is common in Korea for restaurateurs who feature international cuisine. High import taxes make obtaining essential ingredients near impossible (there is no chorizo in the paella, or fried almonds for the tapas). While I am happy to see that the management isn’t willing to substitute less quality ingredients, many of the dishes fail from lack of depth. To the quality of the chefs, everything is made by hand: sauces, croutons, everything.

My real gripe is that Kim, an avid photographer, covers his menu with highly stylized photos of his offerings. Yet, what arrives is often less elegantly executed. I expect this from a magazine ad, or TV advertising. But menu photos should bear close resemblance to what arrives to the table.

Should you go to el Plato? Yes. Go before a night out in Hongdae for a pitcher of red sangria (the white is saccharine sweet) and a few tapas, split a paella between the table, and be happy that younger Koreans are bringing you new flavors and something other than omrice to the table.

My review of Arvorig came out in the Korea Times the past weekend, and you can read it here.

Arvorig re-opened its doors after a long closure, and I am thankful they did. With a corner on the crepe market in Seoul, Arvorig sends out both savory and dessert crepes that incite mouth watering.

Them menu, slightly revamped, allows for custom-built crepes, a small selection of quiche, salads, and drinks.

The wine list features mostly French wines with a few cost saving Chiliads, however, for a touch of authenticity, enjoy your crepes with a mug of low-alcohol cider. That’s how the do it in the birth place of crepes, Brittany.

Friday my review of Kuai 19 came out in the Korea Times. You can read it here.

I have mixed feelings on the place. The good and the bad are even keeled. The atmosphere is beautiful. It is a rare treat when a restaurant can remove you from Seoul. Ajumas, cab drivers, and the guy who wanders through your neighborhood, blaring on and on about computer and tv repairs, magically fade away. Decked out in pinks, rustic furnishings, and quietly elegant nick knacks reminded me of Hanoi or Hoi An.

Kuai 19 is another one of those restaurants who’s prices do not properly reflect the quality of the food. Given that this is Sinsa-dong, I expect to pay more, however 17,000won for a plate of garlic fried chicken that doesn’t even come with a side of rice, causes me to raise an eyebrow. Had the price been a few cheon less (I’m thinking 14,000won) I wouldn’t care.

Price points, though are one way to attract and repell customers. Obivously Kuai 19, like most restaurants in this area are looking for young Koreans with plastic.
The service, if you can call it that is somewhat of an afterthought. Clad in too short aqua blue eyelet tops, would be B-list models lackadasily flip their swoop hair from one side to the other. They may be nice to look at, but don’t make for attentive service. Too busy imagining themselves in a Comme de Garcons Paris show I guess.

To date this is the best Chinese food I’ve had in Seoul. The selection is wide, and the English menu boosts points. I would recommend this restaurant, but with strong warnings as to what to expect, and what to order. This is not the place to go if your favorite restaurant is Carni Station.

Friday, my review of Chungdam Sundubu, ran in The Korea Times, you can read it here.

Sundubu, spicy hot tofu soup, is one of my favorite Korean dishes. Thick with chunks of silken tofu, a fiery broth, red with heat and savory pork, it comforts, sooths, and kills any head cold.

Unfortunately, to many restaurants look at sundubu as an afterthought. Often the broth will be bland and watery, the contents of the soup, lifeless. Here sundubu does not exist to round out a Korean menu; it is placed on a pedestal, out of a passion for well being. Focused with attention to detail, it is perfected to please the most discerning sundubu connoisseurs, one Kevin L. Crowe.

Open 24 hours with an English menu. Ah-sa!

Side dishes. I know that fried whole fish looks nasty, but au contraire, flaky white meat rewards those willing to try.

dwachigalbi, pork spare ribs marinated in soysauce and chilies, served fajita style on a bed of sliced white onions

tofu agidashi, fried tofu in a pool of soy and binto broth, topped with minced ginger, and sliced green onion.

Beating the heat with momil, or cold noodles with a soy and rice wine dipping sauce, embellished with wasabi, grated raddish and minced green onion.

Special thanks to Gill and Tony for taking us.

For my latest Korea Times review I covered Butterfinger Pancakes in Friday’s paper.

Here is the bottom line. Delicious breakfast food at prices you feel good paying. I am talking eggs, bacon, sausage, waffles, and home fries. English service and menu.

The coffee, alternatively, barely stands up to a truck stop in North Dakota.

Starting August 12, the store will be open from 7:00a.m.-3:00a.m.

Friday, my review of Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant
came out in the Korea Times.

The Nanxiang chain originated 100 years ago in Shanghai. Kevin and I popped in over our long weekend, and in a fit of gastronomic hedonism, we ordered steamer after steamer of addictively delicious xiaolongbao (soup dumplings). Our favorite? The crab soup dumplings. Glorious meatballs of pure salty sweet crab in a crabby broth; 5 USD for six.

Fast forward to last week. (Can we do that? I guess we can It is my blog.) I gathered a discerning and tough crew to sample what the Seoul branch could offer. Actually, it became obvious as they managed to clear all three kimchi sides before anything arrived, that their toughness was a cover for their hunger.

Let me start with the sad fact, there were no crab xiaolongbao.
Second sad fact, the basic pork soup dumpling robbed my wallet of 8,000won (9 USD) for six. Ouch.

On the brighter side we were highly entertained by the performance of the mandarin collar clad servers outfitted with clip microphones and earpieces.

Anyhow, the review says it all. Read it and eat it.

My review of Buddha’s Belly ran in the Korea Times over the weekend, and wow, did I almost fail you.

It is a general rule of mine (and most restaurant reviewers) to eat at a restaurant at least twice before writing it up (or down as the case may be). This way we can be sure that dishes that were amazing the first time are just as good the next, or that inconsistent service once was just an anomaly (or not).

I have eaten at the tiny Buddha’s Belly many times and liked it fine, but my first meal at the new location was enough to wish I’d never set foot in the joint. Of the three dishes we ordered only the chicken and cashews rose above mediocrity. The other two, simply weren’t worth my hard earned cash.

The service staff, though somewhat helpful, lazily answered my questions, mis-identified ingredients, and met every query with an accusatory, “Why?”

With an acrid review forming in my head I couldn’t, in good conscience give a favorable write up.

I almost didn’t go back to try it again (I’m not reimbursed for my meals, only paid for the review). But I did, and man, what a difference a week made.

Not only were the staff incredibly more professional, but the menu had grown twice in size. Questions concerning recommendations and ingredients were thoughtfully answered, and we were warned that our appetizer would take a “long time to prepare.”

I had a great meal, which I hope translates to my first visit being a glitch. The Panang curry is the “cat’s pajamas,” as some like to say, as is the chicken satay, and the chicken with cashews.

So, readers, go to Buddha’s belly and eat in good faith, because, it is simply good.

Stick reviewed in the Korea Times Friday, June 23

My review of Stick, an Asian bistro in Ichon-don ran in Friday’s edition of the Korea Times.

Ichon-dong is the Japanese area of Seoul. The main street is lined with little Izakayas, all donning the iconic red lanterns. Sushi restaurants abound, and are, apparently hard to get into if you don’t have a reservation. One tiny Japanese grocery store sits at the end of the street, peddling Japanese miso, umae plums, and dozens of snacks to test out.

I think the review speaks for itself. This is a place to see and be seen. The food is passable, but more thought appears to have gone into the interior than ingredients.

If you are looking for a leisurely snack and a glass of Thai beer make a pit stop.