mary eats

Earlier this week I got an email from NY Times writer Matt Gross asking for eating suggestions in Korea.

Hi Mary,

I’m a writer for the NY Times travel section who’s going to Seoul at the end of November, and I was hoping to get some advice from you, the expert. Basically, my story is simple—I’m supposed to eat my way through the city over the course of a week. I’ve consumed a lot of Korean food in the States, but am wondering what to expect—and what to track down—in Seoul. Are there dining trends to follow up on? New cuisines a-birthing? Local foodies I should invite out for dinner? (Ah, if only you weren’t in Seattle, I’d happily treat you!) And perhaps most important: If you wanted to do nothing but eat in Seoul, which neighborhood would you stay in?

Cheers,

I sent him a laundry list of suggestions, that you can find below, but what are yours? What would you tell Matt or anyone traveling to Seoul where and what to eat?

Hi Matt,

Thanks for contacting me. I have to admit, I wish I was going with you.

Seoul is a funny place. Often similar restaurants are all lumped together in one area leaving you to guess as to which one has the best food. I hated Korean food when I first arrived, and it wasn’t until the last year of my four year stay in the country that I really became interested in cooking, eating, and writing about Korean food.

Street food is ubiquitous, and often repeats itself around the city, though some of the best spots for it are Dongdaemun Stadium, Jong-ro sam-ga, Namdaemoon Market (these are all subway stops btw). My little video will give you a good example of what you can expect to find. http://maryeats.com/2006/09/09/seoul-street-eats/

Foods you must try: Samgawtong, young chicken soup stuffed with rice, ginseng, and dates. Naengmyeong-cold noodle soup, sundubu jjigae, dakgalib-chile fried chicken, A Hanjeongsik meal- multi course Korean dinner, Galbi, Samgapsal, and bulgogi. Last but not least, ddokboggie, rice logs in spicy chile paste. There is a slew of restaurants, even a street named for dokboggie, outside the Sindang subway stop. Oh, I almost forgot. Korean fried chicken. You’ll love it.

In insadong there is a restaurant named Goyro, after a dynasty (and the golden age of Korean Cooking), there you can sample food from this border region of North and South Korea, specialities are the Mandu (dumplings). Insadong is a good place to explore some of Seoul’s more traditional offerings. There is also a tea museum here where you can sample teas from all over Asia.

If you are interested in the international food scene there is a fantastic Filipino street market on Sundays outside of Hyewah station, near the catholic church. Le Saint Ex is the best French Bistro in the city (itaewon), in Hannam-dong there are some good Japanese fish restaurants and a couple of Izakayas.

Myeongdong, is a very popular shopping and tourist destination, but there are some great noodles there, especially at Myeongdong Gyoja. In this area you will also find Lotte and Shinsegae department store. Both house wonderful grocery finds in their basements.

Apgujeong/Chungdamdong is the upper crust of Seoul and here you’ll find some of the most expensive Korean cuisine. It is an area known for the Hanjeongsik (table d^hotel menu). There is a Korean restaurant here called GAON that I regret I never had the chance to eat at. I’ve heard fantastic things about it, and if I were going back I would be sure to stop.

For seasonal produce. pine mushrooms may still be in season. These mushrooms grow at the base of pine trees and are scented with pine. Sometimes they appear on menues for big hotels. The food section of the newspapers sometimes offer recipes for seasonal produce. Fridays are when the restaurant reviews appear. JoongAng daily is great, Followed by the Korea Times (my old haunt), and the Korea Herald.

I do suggest going to EMart and other grocery stores for Kimchi sampling. Also the Kimchi Museum in COEX mall is worth a look if you have the time.

Personally, if you really want to get under the city’s skin I would recommend hiring a guide. There are so many storied surrounding Korean food, trends, customs, and favorites that if you don’t speak the language, you are missing out.

An easy to explore the city would to pick a neighborhood a day. Walk it up and down twice. The Seoul 100 guide at the airport is a good guide. There are a couple Korean Food books I recommend picking up, “Let’s Eat Korean Food”, “Korean Food Guide”, “Seoul Food Finder”, all available at Kyobo Bookstore in Gwahamoon.

Resources. The KNTO website has a great food section http://www.tour2korea.com/ the Gourmet Restaurant Series is perfect for diving the city into food sections and great maps and restaurant info. Ines Cho at the JoongAng daily, is a fantastic foodie who would be great to talk to. Joe from ZenKimchi, http://www.zenkimchi.com/, and Andrew Salmon, http://www.seoulselection.com/shopping_book_view.html?pid=13 , puts a great foreigners eye perspective on dining and cooking Korean. Also the folks at Seoul Glow, http://www.seoulglow.com/, and Galbi Jim, http://forums.galbijim.com/, could be of some culinary assistance.

What to schlep back with you: kimchi covered chocolates are terrible, but a fun gift to give to people. Lotte Anytime mints are deliciously addictive and they are the most asked about item on my blog. Gochugaru, made in Korea. The Korean rice wines. Soju is very cheap, but give the others a try tool Beaksoju will knock you out cold. You must try a Soju kettle, but just one. Soju is a beast to get over.

Good Luck and enjoy!

Mary